Tuesday, December 20, 2011

An American Paradox

When surprised visitors to Sandton comment on the First World luxury and brand-hyped consumerism of Sandton, and they realize that the Third World squalor and poverty of Alexandra is within spiting distance, I tell them that South Africa today is full of paradoxes. Politicians using limousines and jets and all the other trappings of privilege, whilst at the same time still practicing primitive tribal customs. Sophisticated state-of-the-art medicine living alongside sangomas and witch doctors. There are many other examples. Unless one comes to terms and makes peace with this aspect of the country, the mystery will remain.

Well, America has some of its own mystery. And not to speak of the odd surprising paradox. We are in Washington. and we know how bouncy and friendly Americans can be with their "Have a nice day" sunniness and "You're welcome!" after every thank you. America always seems to be a place of endless goodwill and optimism. But there is a darker side. This is felt most immediately by the humorless attitude of the immigration officers and the tough post 9/11 Homeland Security culture of the airport arrivals. Our friends Carl and Annette are 'random-selected' for further questioning after the rest of us have walked past the final customs guy. They spend an additional hour in a further line waiting to be investigated. Ahead of them a squirming young woman has her packed clothes and underwear examined in full view of other passengers. A few inane questions, and they are free to go. But the message is clear. Don't mess with our security system! And don't try and lighten this deliberate, and relentless process with any funny remarks or sidelong humor.

The paradox is that the warmth and willingness to engage with anyone is only superficial. Underneath it is the big American systems-machine that stops for nothing and has to be taken very seriously.
The driver from Dulles tells us that Obama is doing a good job in difficult circumstances and will be re-elected. The Republicans are just putting up a fight because they have to and this is, after al, what democracy is all about. Obama is welcoming home the first wave of returning veterans because the war in Iraq is now over. In a land of enterprise and opportunity one million veterans will be looking for jobs and the Democrats will be fighting to keep down the unemployment figures.

1 comment:

  1. America, like most other countries, is a complex organism... since I immigrated there in 1981, the familiar poker-faced customs officials would examine my passport after every return... these androids exist on a separate sphere from the genuine friendliness of the ubiquitous warm 'you're welcome"... a warmth I always found genuine and not superficial.

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