Saturday, January 7, 2012

India Two: The Palace on Wheels

By now we consider ourselves to be well-informed 'special train' travelers. We start and can't help comparing the 'Palace-on-Wheels' with the 'Orient Express' Bigger compartments within a very long train, but more garishly "Indian" with a slightly jaded opulence. Each coach has four compartments with two single beds next to each other and a small shower/loo arrangement. Hand painted ceilings and gold embossed woodwork A small communal sittingroom for the four compartments Liveried attendents who respond to the slightest request with "your wish is my command" demeanor. They bring endless trays of tea and serve a cooked breakfast in the small sitting area. Every evening the dinner is served in one of several dining cars, each named after some notable Maharani. The food is not classy French like the Orient Express but authentically Indian and the curries not too hot. The meal starts with soup,and then develops to a series of servings ranging from every kind of rice based Indian dish to more Western-style lamb, beef, chicken or fish. We enjoy everything and end up eating double helpings of the pudding because they serve delicious mango/coconut/ mixed fruit ice cream every time. A good selection of wines but very expensive.
The great thing about the train is that each day has a well-planned and balanced visitor program, taking us in specific small groups to visit the outstanding sights and experiences of Rajasthan. Totally relaxing because everything has been thought out and planned for you, so you don't have to make any decisions. Having done much traveling on our own over te years we appreciate how uncomplicated it is when you don't have to hire a cxar or work a foreign map to get somewhere. And you don't have to decide what you may want to see on any day. Not for everyone this. Some may feel 'herded' But we enjoy it very much. Everyday on whatever bus is taking you out there is a specially qualified guide who gives the background and conducts the tour. I check with a number of them to see how they got into the tourism/guiding business and am impressed to hear how many of them have Masters degrees in History or English Literature or some other top-end academic discipline. Mostly they speak well and give detailed explanations of the region and its culture. While the train moves through the various stops on the schedule we pass endless green fields of wheat and barley and rape.and fields with trees that remind us of different parts of South Africa. We can lie on our beds and stare out of the windows at the changing scenery. Very relaxing.

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